Couloir Nord Est

Difficoltà globale

TD

Esposizione

NE

Data verifica

13/02/2009

Dati invernali

Pendenza

80°

Avvicinamento (D+)

450 m

Avvicinamento

: Si raggiunge in auto il complesso di rustici di Campocatino e i relativi parcheggi da Vagli di Sopra mediante una nuova strada sterrata che con un violento strappo al territorio permette di evitare l’attraversamento del paese. Si entra nel vasto anfiteatro e si punta decisi verso la parete. Attacco: Al vertice di un conoide di slavina, risulta molto evidente sin dal piazzale di Campocatino, ed è in comune con il canale Grondalpo di destra. L1 Si può attrezzare una solida sosta su affusti di alberi alla destra (faccia a monte) dell’attacco. Ecco un primo risalto a circa 80°, potrebbe imporre alcuni passi di misto nei primi metri poi diventa più agevole, ci dovrebbe essere una sosta a chiodi al tempo sepolta; L2 Si prende a sinistra il Couloir Nord vero e proprio, a destra prosegue il canale Grondalpo, un altro breve tratto verticale su i 70°; L3 Ora su per il C.N., un solo tratto irto a 75°. Per fare sosta ci si dirige a destra in una piccola grotta sbarrata da muro di neve; L4 Dalla grotta in traverso a sinistra per riprendere poi il C. con un tratto più ripido del precedente, indi il C. gradualmente s’adagia sino alla base di una goulotte; L5 Primo tiro nella stretta goulotte, meno ostico di quello che può sembrare dal basso, almeno tre buone viti da posizionare nei primi metri, poi chiodo su roccia a sinistra e sosta da rinforzare poco più in alto; L6 La goulotte termina con un ripido risalto ostruito da neve mal trasformata che rende meno sicura la progressione, soprattutto nell’uscita verso sinistra. L’assicuratore alla sosta si trova molto esposto alla caduta di frammenti essendo recisamente sulla verticale di salita; L7 Dopo pochi metri si scavalca una affilata cresta e ci si affaccia sul canale che sale dalla sinistra, tagliandolo in esposto traverso, almeno una possibilità di rinviare esili alberi, e si va a sostare a fianco delle rocce in vista di un colossale prisma di roccia che sembra sbarrare il passo; L8 Si percorre il canale, pendenza massima sui i 75°, e si entra in una bella grotta adorna di muschio ed enormi stalattiti, almeno un chiodo di sosta affiorante; L9 Si abbandona la grotta traversando verso sinistra sotto una teoria di piccoli tetti dai quali si proiettano enormi lingue ghiacciate, possibile proteggersi con un’ottima vite o con chiodi in loco, espostissima uscita su ghiaccio 80° e poi la parete si corica gradualmente fino a sostare su strutture rocciose; L10 Almeno un tiro su comodo pendio 45° e sosta sulle rocce a sinistra; L11 Si procede verso la linea di cresta e ci si accomoda a cavalcioni di questa o sul versante opposto. Discesa: Per il canale di San Viano, primo tratto in piolet traction discendente fino ad una sosta. Da questa si scende tutta la corda e si sosta nel canale, possibile un’altra doppia su sosta da rinforzare oppure scendere al meglio fino al limitare del bosco. Entrare in questo e traversare verso sinistra senza perdere quota passando sotto l’attacco della cresta Sud Est e di qui fino ad incontrare il sentiero e poi la strada che riconducono a Campocatino. Ultima revisione 13/02/2009 Autori: pardes_18 Proponi una modifica all'itinerario scrivendo a redazione@gulliver.it Nelle vicinanze Mappa Itinerari 01/02/2026 LU, Vagli Sotto D+ 700 m PD- Sud-Est Roccandagia Canale San Viano 0m 05/04/2008 LU, Vagli Sotto D+ 890 m PD- Est Tambura (Monte) Canale a Esse 2.7Km 18/05/2020 LU, Vagli Sotto D+ 892 m PD Varie Tambura (Monte) Cresta del Grondalpo, del Roccandagia e Nord Est del Tambura 3.8Km 31/01/2021 LU, Vagli Sopra D+ 900 m AD Est Tambura (Monte) Parete Est via di sx 3.9Km 31/01/2021 LU, Vagli sotto D+ 900 m AD+ Est Tambura (Monte) antiecima NE – Via Sarperi – Severini 4.1Km 01/01/2018 LU, Vagli Sotto D+ 250 m D- Sud-Est Roccandagia Piccola Spigolo Sud-Est 4.4Km 26/07/2026 LU, Vagli Sotto D+ 850 m AD+ Varie Alto di Sella (Monte) e Monte Sella Cresta Nord-Est 4.4Km 08/11/2025 LU, Vagli Sotto D+ 700 m F+ Nord-Ovest Roccandagia Cresta NO 5Km 21/03/2015 LU, Minucciano D+ 990 m F Nord Tambura (Monte) Versante NE Carcaraia 5.4Km 08/03/2025 LU, Minucciano D+ 1216 m AD+ Nord-Est Pisanino (Monte) Cresta della Mirandola 6Km Servizi 9.7Km Vallechiara Albergo Stazzema 18 anni fa pardes_18 4 13/02/2009 The fastest in the Gran Sanbernardo Download the app to upload your time Ranking User Date Time Careggine › South-west: Diga Lago Isola Santa - Lago di Isola Santa - Info CircuitoLuccaTurismo Distanza: 5.04 km Molazzana › South-east: Rifugio Enrico Rossi alla Pania Distanza: 8.56 km Vinca: Toscana, Italia Distanza: 11 km Canevara: monte Grondilice - Monte Contrario Distanza: 11.38 km Massa › North: Colline del Candia, Massa-Carrara - Monte Brugiana Distanza: 14.72 km Borgo San Lorenzo: Radiolanversilia web cam live Sant'Anna Distanza: 14.81 km Barga › North: Sommocolonia Distanza: 16.1 km Villa Minozzo › North-east: Rifugio Segheria dell'Abetina Reale Distanza: 18.9 km Massa: Marina di Massa › South: Pontile di Marina di Massa - Cannocchiale Panoramico (1€) Distanza: 18.91 km Luni: Montemarcello Distanza: 18.94 km Forte dei Marmi Distanza: 19.05 km Forte dei Marmi: Bagno Flavio Distanza: 19.26 km window.optiload = window.optiload || {}; optiload.cmd = optiload.cmd || []; console.log("Gulliver ADV: scanning .gptedge items" ); document.querySelectorAll('.gptedge').forEach(function(banner) { let bannerClass = 'gptslot'; let tab = banner.closest('.tab'); if (tab !== null) { bannerClass = 'gptslot-tab-' + tab.id; } banner.classList.add( bannerClass ) console.log("Gulliver ADV: adding " + bannerClass + " to .gptedge item" ); }); console.log("Gulliver ADV: finished scanning .gptedge items" ); window.optiload.cmd.push(function() { window.optiload.addEventListener("ready", function() { if (optiload.$('.sticky').length) { // make sure "#sticky" element exists var el = optiload.$('.sticky').last(); var endItem = optiload.$('.infinite-item-end').last(); if (optiload.$(window).width() >= 1000) { // breakpoint Gulliver optiload.$(window).scroll(function () { // scroll event var stickyTop = el.closest(".sticky-wrapper").offset().top - 95; // returns number var stickyHeight = el.height(); el.closest(".sticky-wrapper").height(stickyHeight); var limit = endItem.offset().top; var windowTop = optiload.$(window).scrollTop(); // returns number if (stickyTop < windowTop) { el.css({ position: 'fixed', top: 95 }); } else { el.css('position', 'static'); } if ((limit - stickyHeight ) < windowTop +95) { var diff = limit - stickyHeight - windowTop; el.css({ top: diff }); } }); } } }); }); Gulliver Outdoor community Gulliver è una community outdoor. 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} else if (browser === "IE") { return /IEMobile/.test(ua) ? _getVersion(ua, "IEMobile/") : /MSIE/.test(ua) ? _getVersion(ua, "MSIE ") : _getVersion(ua, "rv:"); } else if (browser === "Safari") { return _getVersion(ua, "Version/"); } else if (browser === "WebKit") { return _getVersion(ua, "WebKit/"); } return "0.0.0"; } function _getVersion(ua, token) { try { return _normalizeSemverString(ua.split(token)[1].trim().split(/[^\w\.]/)[0]); } catch (o_O) { } return "0.0.0"; } function _normalizeSemverString(version) { const ary = version.split(/[\._]/); return (parseInt(ary[0], 10) || 0) + "." + (parseInt(ary[1], 10) || 0) + "." + (parseInt(ary[2], 10) || 0); } function _isWebView(ua, os, browser, version, options) { switch (os + browser) { case "iOSSafari": return false; case "iOSWebKit": return _isWebView_iOS(options); case "AndroidAOSP": return false; case "AndroidChrome": return parseFloat(version) >= 42 ? /; wv/.test(ua) : /\d{2}\.0\.0/.test(version) ? true : _isWebView_Android(options); } return false; } function _isWebView_iOS(options) { const document = (window["document"] || {}); if ("WEB_VIEW" in options) { return options["WEB_VIEW"]; } return !("fullscreenEnabled" in document || "webkitFullscreenEnabled" in document || false); } function _isWebView_Android(options) { if ("WEB_VIEW" in options) { return options["WEB_VIEW"]; } return !("requestFileSystem" in window || "webkitRequestFileSystem" in window || false); } const options = {}, nav = window.navigator || {}, ua = nav.userAgent || "", os = _detectOS(ua), browser = _detectBrowser(ua), browserVersion = _detectBrowserVersion(ua, browser); isWebView = _isWebView(ua, os, browser, browserVersion, options); } return isWebView; } function isAllowedWebViewForUserAgent(provider) { const facebookAllowedWebViews = [ 'Instagram', 'FBAV', 'FBAN' ]; let whitelist = []; if (provider && provider === 'facebook') { whitelist = facebookAllowedWebViews; } const nav = window.navigator || {}, ua = nav.userAgent || ""; if (whitelist.length && ua.match(new RegExp(whitelist.join('|')))) { return true; } return false; } function disableButtonInWebView(providerButtonElement) { if (providerButtonElement) { providerButtonElement.classList.add('nsl-disabled-provider'); providerButtonElement.setAttribute('href', '#'); providerButtonElement.addEventListener('pointerdown', (e) => { const closeNotice = function () { if (window._nslWebViewNoticeElement) { window._nslWebViewNoticeElement.remove(); window._nslWebViewNoticeElement = null; } }; closeNotice(); window._nslWebViewNoticeElement = document.createElement('div'); window._nslWebViewNoticeElement.id = "nsl-notices-fallback"; window._nslWebViewNoticeElement.role = 'alert'; window._nslWebViewNoticeElement.ariaLive = 'assertive'; window._nslWebViewNoticeElement.ariaAtomic = 'true'; window._nslWebViewNoticeElement.addEventListener('pointerdown', closeNotice); window._nslWebViewNoticeElement.addEventListener('keydown', function (e) { if (e.key === 'Enter') { e.preventDefault(); closeNotice(); } }); const webviewNoticeHTML = '<div class="error"><p>' + scriptOptions._localizedStrings.webview_notification_text + '</p></div>'; window._nslWebViewNoticeElement.insertAdjacentHTML("afterbegin", webviewNoticeHTML); document.body.appendChild(window._nslWebViewNoticeElement); }); } } window._nslDOMReady(function () { window.nslRedirect = function (url) { if (scriptOptions._redirectOverlay) { const overlay = document.createElement('div'); overlay.id = "nsl-redirect-overlay"; let overlayHTML = ''; const overlayContainer = "<div id='nsl-redirect-overlay-container'>", overlayContainerClose = "</div>", overlaySpinner = "<div id='nsl-redirect-overlay-spinner'></div>", overlayTitle = "<p id='nsl-redirect-overlay-title'>" + scriptOptions._localizedStrings.redirect_overlay_title + "</p>", overlayText = "<p id='nsl-redirect-overlay-text'>" + scriptOptions._localizedStrings.redirect_overlay_text + "</p>"; switch (scriptOptions._redirectOverlay) { case "overlay-only": break; case "overlay-with-spinner": overlayHTML = overlayContainer + overlaySpinner + overlayContainerClose; break; default: overlayHTML = overlayContainer + overlaySpinner + overlayTitle + overlayText + overlayContainerClose; break; } overlay.insertAdjacentHTML("afterbegin", overlayHTML); document.body.appendChild(overlay); } window.location = url; }; let targetWindow = scriptOptions._targetWindow || 'prefer-popup', lastPopup = false; document.addEventListener('click', function (e) { if (e.target) { const buttonLinkElement = e.target.closest('a[data-plugin="nsl"][data-action="connect"]') || e.target.closest('a[data-plugin="nsl"][data-action="link"]'); if (buttonLinkElement) { if (lastPopup && !lastPopup.closed) { e.preventDefault(); lastPopup.focus(); } else { let href = buttonLinkElement.href, success = false; if (href.indexOf('?') !== -1) { href += '&'; } else { href += '?'; } const redirectTo = buttonLinkElement.dataset.redirect; if (redirectTo === 'current') { href += 'redirect=' + encodeURIComponent(window.location.href) + '&'; } else if (redirectTo && redirectTo !== '') { href += 'redirect=' + encodeURIComponent(redirectTo) + '&'; } if (targetWindow !== 'prefer-same-window' && checkWebView()) { targetWindow = 'prefer-same-window'; } if (targetWindow === 'prefer-popup') { lastPopup = NSLPopup(href + 'display=popup', 'nsl-social-connect', buttonLinkElement.dataset.popupwidth, buttonLinkElement.dataset.popupheight); if (lastPopup) { success = true; e.preventDefault(); } } else if (targetWindow === 'prefer-new-tab') { const newTab = window.open(href + 'display=popup', '_blank'); if (newTab) { if (window.focus) { newTab.focus(); } success = true; window._nslHasOpenedPopup = true; e.preventDefault(); } } if (!success) { window.location = href; e.preventDefault(); } } } } }); let buttonCountChanged = false; const googleLoginButtons = document.querySelectorAll(' a[data-plugin="nsl"][data-provider="google"]'); if (googleLoginButtons.length && checkWebView()) { googleLoginButtons.forEach(function (googleLoginButton) { if (scriptOptions._unsupportedWebviewBehavior === 'disable-button') { disableButtonInWebView(googleLoginButton); } else { googleLoginButton.remove(); buttonCountChanged = true; } }); } const facebookLoginButtons = document.querySelectorAll(' a[data-plugin="nsl"][data-provider="facebook"]'); if (facebookLoginButtons.length && checkWebView() && /Android/.test(window.navigator.userAgent) && !isAllowedWebViewForUserAgent('facebook')) { facebookLoginButtons.forEach(function (facebookLoginButton) { if (scriptOptions._unsupportedWebviewBehavior === 'disable-button') { disableButtonInWebView(facebookLoginButton); } else { facebookLoginButton.remove(); buttonCountChanged = true; } }); } const separators = document.querySelectorAll('div.nsl-separator'); if (buttonCountChanged && separators.length) { separators.forEach(function (separator) { const separatorParentNode = separator.parentNode; if (separatorParentNode) { const separatorButtonContainer = separatorParentNode.querySelector('div.nsl-container-buttons'); if (separatorButtonContainer && !separatorButtonContainer.hasChildNodes()) { separator.remove(); } } }) } });})(); Link copiato Loading